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I have a Nintendo Switch, Original DS, Nintendo 3DS, a Wii system, a Wii U system, and a Gamecube. As for everything else, I also have a laptop that I can use to emulate.
MyBlanky93 said:I have that ODE from Gixel for the 3DO and let me tell you it works really fantastically and even plays audio CD images you can make yourself. Fixel is now making an ODE for the FM Towns Marty and has plans to set up ODEs for two additional systems the PC-FX and the Philips CD-i.
MyBlanky93 said:I have a RetroTINK 5X and I use it for all of my old systems (game console and home computer) up to the Nintendo Wii, well consoles that don’t output HDMI or DVI, the latter which I’m going to install on my Atari 8bit computer and my Atari 5200 at some point when I receive my Sophia 2 devices.
I look forward to a be all end all of PS2 memory card, a PS2 memory card akin to what 8bitmods made for PS1 and GameCube (I have both those memory cards that can store so many blocks on 1GB alone in a microSD card). And although I could see myself upgrading the video for my PS2, Wii and Xbox to HDMI, I’ll have to stick with analog video from the rest of my old systems up to the Dreamcast.LittleAndAlone said:The PixelFX PS2Digital HDMI is coming soon too. Godsend for majority of games that refuse to boot in anything but 480i and can't even be forced with GSM. Time to do a Xenosaga Trilogy marathon!
I got a RetroTINK 5X as soon as they came out and I love it! Makes the old systems look great when hooked up with Component or S-Video. I have been collecting mainly physical console games over the years but I do have a Satiator ODE for my Japanese Saturn. It goes in the expansion slot in the back so you can keep your optical drive in there. It's great for playing those super rare and expensive games that are way out of my budget.MyBlanky93 said:I have that ODE from Gixel for the 3DO and let me tell you it works really fantastically and even plays audio CD images you can make yourself. Fixel is now making an ODE for the FM Towns Marty and has plans to set up ODEs for two additional systems the PC-FX and the Philips CD-i.
I have a RetroTINK 5X and I use it for all of my old systems (game console and home computer) up to the Nintendo Wii, well consoles that don’t output HDMI or DVI, the latter which I’m going to install on my Atari 8bit computer and my Atari 5200 at some point when I receive my Sophia 2 devices.
I got my RetroTINK 5X in November of 2021 and I’ve been using it for my old systems up to even my Nintendo Wii except for my 360 and PS3. I’ve been really satisfied with making the display of old systems look fantastic on a new TV with the RetroTINK device though I still have to use a CRT for light gun games, 3D games from Master System and ROB the robot. And whenever I get an ODE for a CD-based game console, I tend to remove my CD drive all together if the description says you can replace it, because it’s just that all CD lasers die eventually. I look forward to other projects from Fixel such as ODEs for FM Towns Marty (which I preordered), PC-FX and Philips CD-I.LilPaddedBunny said:I got a RetroTINK 5X as soon as they came out and I love it! Makes the old systems look great when hooked up with Component or S-Video. I have been collecting mainly physical console games over the years but I do have a Satiator ODE for my Japanese Saturn. It goes in the expansion slot in the back so you can keep your optical drive in there. It's great for playing those super rare and expensive games that are way out of my budget.
Some consoles are more prone to optical drive failure than others, though it's not always the laser. My Gamecube sometimes wouldn't read discs until it warmed up. Turns out it was the capacitors on the board for the disc drive. I replaced those and it works good as new again! Apart from repairs, I usually try to keep my consoles as original as possible. I do have a heavily modded GBA and original Game Boy though. Modding those was fun!MyBlanky93 said:I got my RetroTINK 5X in November of 2021 and I’ve been using it for my old systems up to even my Nintendo Wii except for my 360 and PS3. I’ve been really satisfied with making the display of old systems look fantastic on a new TV with the RetroTINK device though I still have to use a CRT for light gun games, 3D games from Master System and ROB the robot. And whenever I get an ODE for a CD-based game console, I tend to remove my CD drive all together if the description says you can replace it, because it’s just that all CD lasers die eventually. I look forward to other projects from Fixel such as ODEs for FM Towns Marty (which I preordered), PC-FX and Philips CD-I.
That NES mod looks pretty clean! They have a HDMI mod for the NES as well but it's harder to do. You need to remove the PPU chip from the board, and that requires a really good desoldering gun. I have my model 1 Genesis hooked up to the RetroTINK 5X with a HD Retrovision component cable, and it's crystal clear! Looks as good as an emulator on PC. The console itself is still stock, apart from putting in new voltage regulators. HD Retrovision cables are EXPENSIVE but they give you the best picture possible from an unmodded console, when used with a good upscaler.LittleAndAlone said:Majority of my mods are reversible or don't touch the shell. Others are more extensive when I have multiples and don't need to keep them all original. Examples:
NES with RF box removed and custom power entry and DC conversion PCB with a SNES style AV multi out with RGB from NESRGB where the RF and channel switch used to be.
Genesis model 1 "high definition" non TMSS with the RF box removed, 3BP audio, and jailbar fixed (lifted VDP pins and analog power pin bypass caps) RGB through a Genesis 2 style stereo mini DIN where the RF hole used to be.
Dreamcast has a mini HDMI hole cut in the case for DCDigital.
I made all these look OEM like they came that way and realistically Im never gonna touch composite again much less RF.
View attachment 107930
Most of my screen caps are archived but they just look like perfect emulator grabs anyway, just from the real thing on a large TV.
Lol I'd love to have a Hakko FR-301, but those are expensive! I have a good soldering station but I mostly use desoldering braid for removing things.LittleAndAlone said:
My NES is the only console I'm not using upgraded cables with. It's using composite but the RetroTINK does a good job of cleaning up the image. I did refurbish it though. I replaced the caps and diodes in the RF box, the voltage regulator, and all the caps on the main board. It's as good as it's gonna get without extensive modding. Still miles better than using an RF switch. Those look and sound horrible!LittleAndAlone said:Anything beyond composite requires PPU removal. The HDMI mod requires CPU removal too.
HDMI mod may as well not exist. The guy who made it works for Analogue now so they will never be made again. You can't obtain it anymore so not even worth mentioning ever again unless he open sources it. Unlikely since they want to sell you their $600 FPGA clones instead.
It also causes compatibility issues with Everdrives or something so that right away takes it off the table.
I had to go with a high quality switching regulator. Even an upgraded 2A 78S05 linear regulator was getting way too hot with the combined load of the NES, NESRGB, and Everdrive N8 Pro. Just went for the golden part and didn't bother with trying a bigger heatsink etc.LilPaddedBunny said:My NES is the only console I'm not using upgraded cables with. It's using composite but the RetroTINK does a good job of cleaning up the image. I did refurbish it though. I replaced the caps and diodes in the RF box, the voltage regulator, and all the caps on the main board. It's as good as it's gonna get without extensive modding. Still miles better than using an RF switch. Those look and sound horrible!
That looks pretty sweet! Did you still reuse the original PPU chip? The mod I saw had you remove the PPU and plug a daughterboard back into the holes, then the PPU went into a socket on the daughterboard.LittleAndAlone said:View attachment 107938
View attachment 107939
View attachment 107940
Any noise in these is from the camera starting to pick up the pixel grid on the 4K display and causing moire.
Yeah exactly like that.LilPaddedBunny said:That looks pretty sweet! Did you still reuse the original PPU chip? The mod I saw had you remove the PPU and plug a daughterboard back into the holes, then the PPU went into a socket on the daughterboard.
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