- Messages
- 7,211
- Role
- Adult Baby
- Little
So, back to construction plans: I'm doing market-estimating for materials for the home, pricing out stuff. Then I go to these DIY sites to look at wall-construction codes and am appalled at how many "half-step-ahead" thinkers there are who post there, who make more declarations than ask questions.
So, the big amateur topic at these places? "92-5/8 studs are a rip-off! They're not even real 2x4s!" and they moan about "lumber shrinkflation". How immature...want a 'scandal'? Even if they're 8 feet long, they're only 1-1/2 by 3-1/2 inches cross-section...not truly 2x4. So that deflates their arguments right there. But that's not the real gripe...it's that in their inflexible minds, walls that use 92-5/8-inch 2x4s are not "real walls".
So, read up and understand...yes, they are. And they're code.
Real walls, from subfloor to rafter-bottom, are 97-1/8 inches. That is fact. And here's why: in a wall, the basic elements are 2x4 lumber. A horizontal 2x4 at the bottom is the "bottom rail", upon which vertical 2x4 "studs" are placed. Topping those off to complete the wall are two horizontal 2x4s called "top plates". Two are used; after all walls (with single top plates) are built & erected, they are interconnected with another, secondary top plate nailed on all the way around, with 2x4 end seams staggered at a 4-foot minimum. This helps hold it all together & gives the walls strength to hold the roof up.
So, add it all together: one 92-5/8 stud plus the three horizontal 2x4s at 4-1/2 inches (1.5 inches x 3 plates) is 97-1/8 inches. Goddat? Good. Now, let's go inside and hang drywall...
Drywall is 4x8 (feet)...i.e. 48 x 96 inches. And half-inch thick. The ceiling drywall always goes up first. Subtract that 1/2-inch-thick drywall from 97-1/8 and you get 96-5/8...allowing you to put up that 4x8 drywall either cross-ways horizontally or vertically (the former is preferred to hide seams better, to avoid "peaking" at the studs). Subtract 96 from 96-5/8...you get a 5/8-inch gap at the bottom, which comes in handy for slipping a drywall foot-lever to heft a bottom sheet of drywall up & snug to an installed top drywall sheet...or to slip a 1/2-inch floor underlayment sheet under (kitchen, bath, utility/mud-room) for good fit & finish.
And that's how it all works. So, the 92-5/8-inch-long stud is your friend. And it's not a "rip-off". 8-footers will always have a place...just not as wall studs, unless you wanna lose time nipping ends off a lot (and risk getting a few a lit-tle too short).
Now, let's look at the next so-called "lumber rip-off": 2x3s. Those...are for mobile homes...and Adult Baby Crib top & bottom side-rails. Hope ya brought a sack-lunch...cuz "class dismissed"!
So, the big amateur topic at these places? "92-5/8 studs are a rip-off! They're not even real 2x4s!" and they moan about "lumber shrinkflation". How immature...want a 'scandal'? Even if they're 8 feet long, they're only 1-1/2 by 3-1/2 inches cross-section...not truly 2x4. So that deflates their arguments right there. But that's not the real gripe...it's that in their inflexible minds, walls that use 92-5/8-inch 2x4s are not "real walls".
So, read up and understand...yes, they are. And they're code.
Real walls, from subfloor to rafter-bottom, are 97-1/8 inches. That is fact. And here's why: in a wall, the basic elements are 2x4 lumber. A horizontal 2x4 at the bottom is the "bottom rail", upon which vertical 2x4 "studs" are placed. Topping those off to complete the wall are two horizontal 2x4s called "top plates". Two are used; after all walls (with single top plates) are built & erected, they are interconnected with another, secondary top plate nailed on all the way around, with 2x4 end seams staggered at a 4-foot minimum. This helps hold it all together & gives the walls strength to hold the roof up.
So, add it all together: one 92-5/8 stud plus the three horizontal 2x4s at 4-1/2 inches (1.5 inches x 3 plates) is 97-1/8 inches. Goddat? Good. Now, let's go inside and hang drywall...
Drywall is 4x8 (feet)...i.e. 48 x 96 inches. And half-inch thick. The ceiling drywall always goes up first. Subtract that 1/2-inch-thick drywall from 97-1/8 and you get 96-5/8...allowing you to put up that 4x8 drywall either cross-ways horizontally or vertically (the former is preferred to hide seams better, to avoid "peaking" at the studs). Subtract 96 from 96-5/8...you get a 5/8-inch gap at the bottom, which comes in handy for slipping a drywall foot-lever to heft a bottom sheet of drywall up & snug to an installed top drywall sheet...or to slip a 1/2-inch floor underlayment sheet under (kitchen, bath, utility/mud-room) for good fit & finish.
And that's how it all works. So, the 92-5/8-inch-long stud is your friend. And it's not a "rip-off". 8-footers will always have a place...just not as wall studs, unless you wanna lose time nipping ends off a lot (and risk getting a few a lit-tle too short).
Now, let's look at the next so-called "lumber rip-off": 2x3s. Those...are for mobile homes...and Adult Baby Crib top & bottom side-rails. Hope ya brought a sack-lunch...cuz "class dismissed"!