try,
MIG Welding - The DIY Guide , for tips on welding and fabrication
don't worry about having to run further passes on a bead, so long as you grind back and de-slag thoroughly before the laying down the next run, especially when welding thin metal. best bet is to get some fairly thick metal to get used to the sounds and sights of lovely weld pools, without blowing through. it's a 'right tool for the right job' kinda thing.
i started welding on cars with stick (mma/arc - i had no choice about it at the time) and then invested in a MIG and even with the MIG, on car bodywork and other thin guage steel, i often lay down more than one run (using different settings - start off with low current, then finish on a higher setting), just to get a nice finish and good penetration (which also reduces the amount of tarting up you may need to do with a grinder).
and, of course, preparation is the key. not just in cleanliness, but also how you shape the edges of the pieces you're going to weld. and then there's the choice of welding sticks (in size and material)........phew!
as for hand movement, i generally use 3 types (side-to-side, circular and 'stitching' or 'dabbing') for both MMA and MIG, depending on the other factors and on just how it looks to be going as i'm doing it. the side-to-side movement has the greatest variance, from a very slight movement so as not to be even noticeable in the finished weld, to a very wide stroke for thicker materials.
btw, post some pics of your work
