"Hardware Elitism"

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tiny said:
Cheers, ade :)

There aren't any rust holes... but the base is quite rusty.

I think the banging isn't too much to worry about. It doesn't happen at all when the rear panel is removed. There's very little clearance between the rear panel and the drum. Don't know if that makes a difference. (Hmm... maybe the rusty/worn shocks aren't holding the drum as tightly in place...? Everything that isn't rusted looks in good condition.)
yeah, i don't like the look of that rust. i'd ditch it on that alone.
as for the damper itself, i'm a bit wary about the marks red-arrowed:
rusty shock Large e-mail view.jpg

is that a crack or a grease spit?
(ignore the green arrow; i was just going to highlight the rust creeping along the seam and how that lessens structural strength and also allow the metal around the damper's mount to flex back and forth :biggrin:)

btw, is this an AEG Lavamat 50720? i was just a bit puzzled with everything being the 'wrong' way around :)
but, at least that got me finding a drawer housing on ebay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AEG-Lavam...728875?hash=item25d89981eb:g:bEgAAOSwjVVV4ceV

i searched that because i was looking at the rusted thing highlighted here:
leaky tray2 Large e-mail view.jpg

is that the jubilee clip highlighted here?
lavamat tray Large e-mail view.jpg

anyway, the drawer housing will probably be released by removing the drawer at the front to expose the securing screws of the housing (there's usually two or three screws).
leaky tray1 Large e-mail view.jpg

that looks to be the pointy end of one of them ;)

or you may have to remove the whole front facia for screw access (i'm working blind, there); if so, you'll probably have to pop out the control dials and doing that may also expose a couple of screws behind the dials. there's likely some clips built-in to the housing and facia, too (and the drawer housing), which'll just clip into the facia chassis.
you should be able to leave the input hoses attached to help stop the housing falling down, but they can also hinder removal. their securing clips can be released by thumb and finger, but waterpump pliars are better.

the drawer-housing-to-drum hose is ideally replaced, if torn, but it may be repaired with just superglue (standard temporary fix on rubber boots and hoses) or by using a bicycle repair kit. you could also sew it, if you have strong nylon thread. replacement is advised, though.
jubilee clips are available from any auto/diy supplies shop.

hoses tend to only come off due to excess movement, so new dampers are a must. but it's worth ensuring the sturdiness of the damper mount before anything.
 
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ade said:
yeah, i don't like the look of that rust. i'd ditch it on that alone.
as for the damper itself, i'm a bit wary about the marks red-arrowed:

is that a crack or a grease spit?

Oh, a mere flesh-wound!

Yeah; it's a crack... and the damper is probably screwed up from that staining rusty drippage... and the nut can't be removed without destroying the mount mount. I think it looks like a write-off. Thanks for your opinion.

It seems to work okay at the moment (apart from the leak), so I'll carry on using it but look for a new one straight away.

ade said:
btw, is this an AEG Lavamat 50720? i was just a bit puzzled with everything being the 'wrong' way around :)

Wow! Nice guess -- it's actually the 50700, but I guess the 50720 must be almost identical. Maybe the latter has an extra button for washing cummerbunds, or something. :p

That drawer housing looks like just the thing I need... if it weren't for the rusty damper mount. :-/

Any ideas on a good (brand new) machine to buy? I liked the AEG as it had simple controls. One to adjust temperature, and an old-style "programme selection" dial. I only ever used the "quick wash". Well, I think I once used the "main wash", and once the "delicates"...but only because there wasn't a "cummerbund" setting.

Anyway, I don't need a million different settings, a digital display, countdown timer, or golf-ball polisher. I want a very good quality, very reliable, simple machine. Do you know of one? Don't look around if not -- I can do that myself! Just thought I'd ask.

Cheers again again :)
 
tiny said:
Anyway, I don't need a million different settings, a digital display, countdown timer, or golf-ball polisher. I want a very good quality, very reliable, simple machine. Do you know of one? Don't look around if not -- I can do that myself! Just thought I'd ask.
not such a good time for buying white goods; despite all the recalls, fires and complaints, the manufacturers don't seem to want to get their act together.
Hotpoint were always my mum's favourite, but they've gone downhill.....or up in smoke. going by the build-quality of the Hotpoint fridge that we bought a couple of years ago, i wouldn't buy another Hotpoint product.
i was surprised at the machine that i got for my niece, a Candy, as i've not much experience with them, but they own Hoover and in my search for parts, i didn't come across any recalls or horror stories.

i suppose that the only thing to note for you, is that with most machines being geared towards 'eco-ness', it's the in-thing for them to have only a cold water inlet.
you may also need to consider the removal charges for your old machine. they seem to have rocketed since we bought the fridge.
 
tiny said:
I don't know about SSDs, but I've seen so many flaky PCs with random issues that have been caused by cheap PSUs.

It's one of those things that's a nightmare to troubleshoot if you don't know what you're looking for, and would drive me crazy when I've been trying to fix (other people's) computers. Until I learned to try replacing the PSU.

Really annoying when you're doing a mate a favour and end up having to use your own PSU and putting your own machine out of action for testing. Grrr!

Exactly, so many people think wattage is the only factor that matters but a poor quality PSU can have impacts all across your computer.

Cheap SSDs have among other problems worse quality control so you're more likely to get a bad one that dies in less than a year.
 
Cottontail said:
I blew an entire summer's earnings on the parts to build my own Alpha workstation--a 533MHz 21164 box. This was in late 1997. My Linux "BogoMIPS" number was the envy of my fellow CS majors, ha-ha! Windows NT 4.0 ran really well, too, although most apps ran under the x86 emulator, so real performance sucked pretty hard. :)

Nice. A friend of mine won an AlphaStation (I don't know the specs, but when it was finally woefully obsolete it served as a coffee table) for writing an essay on what Digital meant to the Internet.

I bought/built an Alpha DEC Multia to do lightweight server duties in college (it was a playground, augmented our 5x86-133 (OC 160) Linux server that ultimately became, IIRC, a PII-350 box).
 
WildBlueCrinkle said:
Nice. A friend of mine won an AlphaStation (I don't know the specs, but when it was finally woefully obsolete it served as a coffee table) for writing an essay on what Digital meant to the Internet.

I bought/built an Alpha DEC Multia to do lightweight server duties in college (it was a playground, augmented our 5x86-133 (OC 160) Linux server that ultimately became, IIRC, a PII-350 box).
Damn! This is quite a coincidence. I had an Alpha Multia also, and that was what my roommates and I used for a server. Among many things, it served up XKernel to an old diskless Sun 3/60 that we'd gotten for $25 at a surplus auction and had bolted to the side of an old recliner--which was thereafter referred to as the "eChair." Ah! The good ol' days.
 
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