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Thread: Plastic Pants repair: part two.

  1. #1

    Default Plastic Pants repair: part two.

    I did not see the first thread show up in history, but it was on using a moderately hot iron to do plastic welding type repair.

    So that works for the most part, but what do you do when it still will not hold.

    It actually helps with the sewing repair.

    Big caution: do not make your stitches to close together and stager them, other wise you will make a perforation line and the seam will just rip along the dotted line.

    (I am not a seamstress so I do not know the name of the stitches. Please bear with me.)

    Turn the pants inside out, so the seam is more accessible.

    I take the first stitch in the elastic band and tie a knot.

    Then Line up the edges of the and about half way up the seam and about 1/4 of an inch push the needle though the plastic and bring the needle and thread up over the edge and back to the side you started. Move down about 1/4 of an inch and repeat the process (just attempt to not go in a straight line with the stitches). Keep repeating the process until you reach the other end of the seam and tie a not in the elastic.

    Now turn the pants over so the needle and thread are at the same "hand side" as you started with.

    Now fold the seam in half. Then start the sewing process over again.

    Do the same 1/4 inch stitch placement. It will be a little harder to sew because you are going though 4 layers of plastic now. Go from one elastic band to the other and tie off the thread.

    Turn the pants inside right and there should be a nice sealed seam.

    This is a fix and not a strong repair. I am just attempting to get the "bang for my buck".

    In the one case the seams just could not take any "pressure" from when I sat down and would come undone. I messaged to the company about this issue and got Zero Response. The other ones I have had two out of 6 pairs do this un-weld thing.

    This will not work on waist banned or leg ban separation.

    The first pair I did this with lasted a couple of months with reasonable usage.

    This is what worked for me, and I hope it will help somebody else get a few more wearing's out of $18 plastic pants.


  2. #2


    Ive seen those little hand held "food saver", "bag sealers" in shops and on telly with the heated element that you can supposedly use to seal most plastic bags and stuff
    I wonder if they would do the trick?
    If they work i guess it would also provide a more waterproof seal, that should be a bit stronger too.
    Now youve got me thinking!

  3. #3


    The only thing with that is the heat/pressure element and being able to tell when it has welded the seam. TO little and it comes undone again. To much and it melts all the way through and causes even more issues. It is all about timing.

  4. #4


    Mmm, true, i would only try if i had a pair that needed repairing, and still it is a case of trial and error.
    I used to bag/package up lengths of polybutyelene conduit, depending on the qty's i packaged i would use a thicker or thinner μm lengths of plastic "sock" sealed at each end.
    A few thou of an inch variance in the material meant adjusting heat and time on the sealer to suit, usually it was easier to just shorten or lengthen the time.
    Depending on the type of plastic (pb pe pu) theres suitable and flexible adhesives but you need to know exactly what type you are repairing.
    Last edited by starpup; 30-Jul-2015 at 09:37. Reason: net dropped out and doubled my post

  5. #5


    Try the clear Gorilla Tape . Works great.

  6. #6


    Realize that any repair will be temporary - so don't put too much serious time and effort experimenting in the so called permanent fix.
    A cheap repair similar to fixing pantyhose cut or remove the leg with the run and wear another pair with the opposite leg removed.
    Two panties each with a good leg. Thus two plastic diaper covers each with opposing seams in distress. Double the noise effect but
    a temporary solution.
    So why do seams rip or separate? Probably due to improper sizing - wearing a diaper cover too small to do the function and overstressing
    it. Yes I know oversize diaper covers are not really in the realm of vogue unless of course you are fond of doubling and tripling diapers
    up for a show and tell exhibition sporting them under that neat short hemmed baby doll dress. But oversizing has issues with trying to
    scrunch and fit into fitted pants; a onesie or shortalls. Skirts not a problem - we ain't talking pencil skirts here ! All that plastic bundled
    up under those Calvin's and then with a bit of heat they stick together and flexibility is taken down a notch. Eventually wear and tear are
    going to render some distress points in the plastic cover - and rippee kye yea ! So back to the drawing board to figure out if wearing
    minimum liquid absorbing diapers without the plastic cover is going to be enough for the evening out. Or is a heavier diaper with waterproof
    plastic cover required to stay the event. Then on this foundation what do you add to this - fitted skin tight leggings or pants requiring a
    belt or suspenders to prevent falling London britches. Whatever you want to keep the friction and stressing of the plastic diaper cover to a
    minimum so repairs will not be as frequent if at all.

    Back to repairs:
    Avoid acetate; acetone or keotone agents (nail polish remover) petroleum products (Vaseline) etc. these age and make repairs next to impossible.
    Strangely WD40 (fish oil) can help lubricate plastic parts with little or no after effects but makes it difficult to cut paste and glue parts together.
    Expensive repairs with glues used in bonding body suits used in surfing are great but bad bang for the buck for short term temporary repairs.
    Baby oils and lotions work at lubricating pieces and parts but don't do anything to bond parts together.
    Elmers glue forget it - good for wood parts but not on plastic.
    Mentioned previously Gorilla tape - make that GLUE it works. Not terribly flexible - but if you are not doing advanced aerobics should hold up for a while.
    In addition to Gorilla tape - small strips of guess what "DUCT TAPE" work well too. Start with a clean surface avoid heat and excess stressing movement.

    Major points of stress are the side seams; but not really a big concern unless overly wetting laying on one's side.
    The crotch generally does not have a seam for a good reason but is an area of consider wear and tear in use and in some cases toxic residue left for too
    long a period before clean up. The leg bands are next and the elastic in time will give out so don't put a lot of time in keeping these serviceable. Repairs
    with a sewing machine are apt to open up more holes than those that are closed in repair. Waist band is generally not a big deal unless the diapered load
    is so heavy the result is the unsecured diaper falling off - "ker-plop" !

    So to repair or not to repair - that is the question ? Not an easy answer when one is on a limited budget and can not afford to buy replacements as often
    as needed. If on a limited budget buying the repairs can be a problem. Managing to get every addition day of use out of the diaper cover can be a task -
    but care in wearing can really make a difference. Size right and use due care in laundry maintenance. Change diapers often to avoid overstressing the
    seams and stretch characteristics of the cover. Sort of like BABY the baby covering ! LOL !

  7. #7


    I tend to buy big so I get puffy look more like the real baby look.
    Im do to replace mine due to the vinyl is drying out cracking.
    Now mind you they are 5 years old .
    The oil from your skin brakes them down in time .
    I hand wash baby shampoo rince hang dry and rotate 4 pair and they are babykins 6mil thick.
    If you take care of them they last the thinner not as long.
    Repair them never seems to last at all for me .

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